Glass and Ceramic Laser Engraving

For example, the company has summarized key operating points for laser etching of fragile materials such as glass and ceramic, covering parameter adjustment, pre-treatment, and path optimization, to help customers complete fine engravings efficiently, avoid material damage, and raise product yield.

Why does the material crack when you try to cut it?

Glass and ceramics are hard but brittle, and the high temperatures generated by the laser create concentrated stress. If you are not careful with the control, the material will crack.The risk of explosion is especially high when cutting fine patterns or small characters, which require longer periods of laser exposure.

Preparation for engraving.

The surface of the material must be kept clean.

Even invisible dust or oil stains can become "triggers" under the laser.Dip a dust-free cloth in alcohol and wipe the whole thing down, paying attention to the edges and corners. Don't skimp on this step.

The coating is very effective in this regard.

A thin water-based protective coating (like a special laser coating liquid) can be applied to the surface of the material to disperse the concentrated heat.After the letters have been cut, you just wash them off with warm water.

The fixing method must be stable.

Don't use hard metal clamps to hold the workpiece. Instead, use a silicone anti-skid pad, or even better, a vacuum chuck.If the material moves even slightly, the characters will have ragged edges.

The golden rule of laser parameters.

Power should be kept low.

A common mistake among beginners is to turn up the power too high.In fact, fragile materials require a gentler approach. Start with 30 % of the rated power, and if the results are insufficient, add 5 % at a time.

The speed and frequency of the movement must be in sync.

High speed and high frequency easily cause "slippage," while low speed and low frequency can cause "burning.I suggest that speed be controlled at 800-1200 mm / s, and frequency at 20-30 kHz.

The more times you lightly engrave the safer.

Don't think you can get everything done in one go. Divide the depth into two or three stages, and let the material cool for five seconds between each stage.Although it takes two minutes longer, the yield doubles.

The path of the engraver.

Avoid the edges of the material.

Leave a 3mm border around the edges, and try to keep the text in the center of the material.The edges cool down more slowly, and the result is a "crack art" show.

The order in which you write the strokes is important.

First, the fine lines are carved, followed by the coarse lines. Continuous lines are carved in one stroke.Even the best materials will not hold up if you repeatedly burn the same spot.

Speed bumps are needed at corners.

When approaching a sharp corner, slow down by 15-20 %.When there is a sudden change in direction, heat can build up, so adding a 0.1-second delay is even safer.

Points to be checked after completion.

Turn off the laser and don't touch the material. Wait a minute or two for it to cool down naturally, and then shine a strong flashlight obliquely on the surface. If you see a fine, spiderweb-like pattern, you have to start over.Finally, use a brush to sweep away the dust. Never use an air gun to blow away the dust--the temperature change can be a hidden killer.