Glass Laser Marking Guide: Cleaning and Preheating

It explains the key techniques of pre-processing, including surface cleaning and preheating, to help users avoid common mistakes and improve laser marking results.It covers the selection of tools, the details of operation and precautions to be taken, and is suitable for reference by novices and professionals alike.

Why is pretreatment important to laser marking on glass?

Many people think that once a laser marking machine is turned on, it can immediately be used, but in fact, when used with glass, it is easy for the mark to become fuzzy or for the glass to crack or shatter.In fact, the problem usually comes from inadequate pre-treatment. Inadequate cleaning can cause contaminants to interfere with the laser's path, while insufficient pre-heating can cause the glass to heat unevenly.Don't underestimate these two steps, for they directly determine whether the final product will be clear and long-lasting.

Cleaning: A surface with "zero interference.

Don't take tools lightly.

It is best to use non-woven fabric or superfine fiber cloth, and never use paper towels or ordinary towels, which can shed.The cleaning agent should be alcohol or a professional glass cleaner, not a multi-purpose spray containing oils, as this will leave an invisible oil film.

It's more efficient to wipe off a whole area at once.

First, hold the glass up to the light and use a marker to circle any areas with fingerprints or smudges.Wipe in a spiral pattern from the center outward. Hold the glass with one hand on the back to avoid pressing on it and causing it to crack.For tough stains, use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

The drying process is where most mistakes are made.

After wiping, allow 10 minutes for the screen to air dry.Do not use a hot air gun to speed up the drying process, as the sudden temperature change will create stress in the glass, which may cause it to crack when you come to mark it.

Preheating the glass: This is the equivalent of a warm-up exercise for the glass.

The temperature depends on the thickness.

Glass less than 3 mm thick requires heating to about 40 ° C, while glass thicker than 5 mm should be heated to 50-60 ° C.A little trick: Place the back of your hand lightly against the glass. If it feels warm, but not hot, then you've got it just right.

There is a trick to heating them evenly.

If using a hot plate, turn the glass 90 degrees every two minutes.If you are using a hot-air gun, keep it 20 centimeters away and move it in a figure-eight pattern.The edges of the glass must be blown for three to five seconds longer, because they cool down quickly.

How do you judge the state of readiness after preheating?

If the glass is properly preheated, there will be a slight dissipation of moisture on the glass.One can test this by breathing on the glass. If the moisture evaporates evenly and leaves no spots, then the glass has been preheated sufficiently.If the pattern is not clear after one minute, heat it for another minute.

Answers to Common Questions.

What do you do about water marks after the cleaning?

This is usually a water quality problem.Try using distilled water to clean it twice, or try using a stronger solvent such as isopropyl alcohol.Remember to operate in a dust-free environment.

How to deal with the problem of glass deforming when heated?

Check that the heating equipment is heating the glass evenly. For thin glass it is recommended that you use a suspended preheating frame.If the glass has already been deformed slightly, you can turn it over and let it cool naturally; don't use cold water to cool it down, or you'll see it crack in no time.

Is there a difference in the way glass of different colors is handled?

Dark glass absorbs heat quickly, so the preheating time is shortened by about a third. Clear glass needs to be cleaned more carefully because impurities are especially noticeable when marking.Etched glass Avoid using cleaners with abrasive particles, which can damage the surface.