Three Tips for Leatherwork

Does the leather you're trying to engrave keep burning? The problem may be the laser power settings. Here are three tips for setting the parameters of your laser engraver to avoid burning or charring your leather.From the characteristics of the material to the step-by-step process, the instructor will personally teach you to control the temperature, and you can easily improve the quality of your finished works.

Why is it so easy for leather carving to get burned?

Many people who have just started working with leather engraving find that when they try to use their designs on a machine, the edges and corners get blurred, and even whole sections turn black.In fact, this is usually because the power wasn't set correctly. If the power is too high, the leather will carbonize instantly. If it's too low, it won't cut deep enough.Don't worry, the following tips will help you find the "just right" balance.

Technique one: Get to know the "temperament" of the material.

The ability of different thicknesses and hardnesses of leather to withstand the power of the laser varies greatly.For instance, the parameters required for a soft, vegetable-tanned leather are completely different from those for a hard, chromium-tanned leather.

Tests were begun at low power.

It is recommended that a small piece of leather be cut from the same batch for testing.Set the power to 60 % of the recommended level (for example, if 40 watts is recommended, use 24), and engrave a simple pattern.If the edges are frayed but not burnt, increase the power by 5 % for the next run. If they are already yellow, reduce the power by 10 %.

The key is to make sure the leather is the right moisture content.

The damp leather conducts heat more easily, and so it is more likely to scorch at the same wattage.To be on the safe side, blow dry the piece for 30 seconds at a low temperature before carving, or let it sit out in the shade for half a day.

Step by step: The second skill is to carve in stages, so that you can be more sure of the outcome.

You can also use a lower power setting and make several passes.

First coat: a thin base coat.

Using 50 % power, the laser runs over the outline of the object, like a pencil sketching a line.This allows the leather to be positioned and also forms a slight burnt layer on the surface of the leather, which reduces the spread of heat during subsequent carving.

Second reading: Deepen the details.

The power is then turned up to 70 or 80 percent, and the parts of the object that are to be given a three-dimensional effect are carved in.At this point, because you already have the basic outline, you don't have to worry about going off track, and can adjust the parameters based on the results of the first pass.

Tip 3: Make use of the machine's "hidden buffs.

Most medium and high-end machines have auxiliary functions, but many people don't know how to use them.

Intermittent cooling mode.

The machine stops automatically for 0.5 seconds after every 10 seconds of carving. Although the pause is short, it is sufficient to allow the area being carved to cool down, and is especially suitable for carving large patterns.

Dynamic power management.

When the laser beam is moving slowly around a curve, the power is automatically reduced by 5-8 % to prevent charring at the corners.

And finally, a reminder: Every time you change materials, you have to test again. Record the optimal parameters for different types of leather so that the next time you can just call them up and save half the time spent on fine-tuning.When carving, watch the color of the smoke. If it's light and blue, the temperature is just right. If it's thick and black, stop and check the temperature.