From Beginner to Expert: A Guide to Avoiding Pitfalls When Adjusting Laser Marking Machine Parameters

The book teaches readers how to adjust the parameters of their laser marking machine, and how to avoid common problems like improper power settings, speed matching, and focal distance calibration.The book explains the logic of parameter adjustment through the analysis of practical examples, solving problems like blurry markings and burnt material. It is suitable for those just starting out with the equipment or for those wishing to improve processing efficiency, allowing them to quickly master the core techniques.

These are the basic parameters that must be understood before the adjustment.

Don't turn the machine on and start fiddling with the knobs! First, remember these three "golden parameters" that directly influence the results: laser power, marking speed, and frequency.If the power is too low, the marking will be gray and hard to see. If it is too high, it will burn through the material. If the speed is too fast, the lines will be broken. If it is too slow, it will waste time.As for frequency, hard materials such as metal require high-frequency pulses (20 kHz or more), while soft materials such as leather or wood require a lower frequency (5-10 kHz).

A pitfall for newbies.

Last week a customer complained that he couldn't get any detail when engraving acrylic. I asked him how much power he was using, and he said 90 %. No wonder it was melting!Remember that darker materials absorb more light, so less power is required. On the other hand, metals with high reflectivity require a 10-15 % increase in power.

He would personally adjust the camera to the perfect focus.

The focus is like a near-sighted person working! First lower the marking head to about 2 cm above the material, and put a piece of white paper under it.If the center is thicker and lighter than the edge, the lens is out of focus.At this point don't use the fixed values given by the manufacturer; the thickness of the material needs to be adjusted.A small trick: Each time you turn the focusing knob, do not exceed 15 degrees.

The focal point of a lens is displaced by the thickness of the lens.

When marking a cylindrical water cup, the curved surface causes the focal point to shift.At this point, you can either use a three-dimensional dynamic focusing head or manually reduce the marking speed by 30 %, and increase the power by 5 % to compensate for the loss of energy.Last year, we used this trick to solve the problem of blurry edges when we tested stainless steel vacuum flasks.

How to handle unexpected situations.

The color of the markings is uneven.

First, check to see if there are any fingerprints or dust on the lens. This problem accounts for 40 % of all post-sales problems! Use a special lens cleaning paper dipped in alcohol, and wipe it from the center outward in a spiral.If that doesn't work, it could be that the galvanometer motor is overheated. Turn off the machine and let it cool for 20 minutes before trying again.

The material shows signs of having been burned.

The first thing you should do is increase the air pressure to over 0.4MPa to improve cooling, and at the same time turn on the red light preview function.Last time a customer was marking silk, the preview function helped us avoid the tragedy of burning a hole in the fabric.

These hidden settings can save half the time.

90 % of people don't know about the "overlapping" setting: when carving fine patterns, set it to 15 %-20 %, which will eliminate the jagged edges without slowing down the speed.Another cold fact: It's best to calibrate the laser just before leaving work on a Friday, to prevent the optical path from shifting due to changes in temperature over the weekend.

One last piece of advice: Every time you change materials, make a new parameter template, and don't try to change the default settings.Collect these points and the next time you have a problem you can check them off, saving yourself three months of frustration.