High Frequency Pulse How to Use It: The Secret to High Precision in Small-Scale Text Engraving

The seminar explains the core role of high-frequency impulse technology in the engraving of small characters, and shares practical techniques for improving the clarity and yield of characters smaller than 0.1 millimeters. These include adjusting parameters, maintaining equipment, and optimizing processes.

Why does a high-frequency pulse improve the precision of the cutting?

The high-frequency pulses are like a "micro-surgical scalpel." By releasing precise energy tens of thousands of times per second, they can create very fine processing points on the surface of the material.Compared with traditional continuous lasers, it can reduce the area affected by heat, avoiding the melting and diffusion of material. This is the key reason why it is so easy to blur the edges when carving text of 0.5 mm or less.

Three steps to a better you.

Parameters should be matched like a tailor fitting a suit.

Don't just use the default parameters that the manufacturer gives you. First, use a piece of scrap to do a frequency test. Start at 20 kHz and increase the frequency by 5 kHz every time. Watch the edges of the lines at each frequency.Remember that cutting copper requires a higher frequency (40-60 kHz), and acrylics require a lower frequency to avoid burning.

The lenses must be kept as if they were treasures.

Last week one of our regular customers complained that the engravings always had little nicks, and we found that it was because the lenses had gotten greasy.Every morning before work, the lenses are lightly wiped with a special cleaning pen. Every two weeks, they are cleaned thoroughly with pure alcohol.Don't underestimate the effect of a 0.01 millimeter deviation in focus: it can make 0.2 millimeter type look like "cursive script.

Don't mess around with the auxiliary gases.

The effects of compressed air and nitrogen are worlds apart! When engraving highly reflective materials like stainless steel, using 99 % pure nitrogen can reduce oxidation and blackening.The pressure should be set between 0.3 and 0.5 MPa, otherwise the molten slag will be blown back into the groove.

If you find yourself in one of these situations, don't panic.

At the turn of a page, a line is broken.

First, check whether the lubrication on the guide rails is adequate, and then try adjusting the pulse interval from 5μs to 3μs.If that doesn't work, then it's probably that the drive voltage is insufficient. A 2-3 volt increase will do the trick.

The depth of the carving is variable.

90 % of the time, it's a problem with the flatness of the material.Don't rely too much on vacuum suction tables. The best way to secure thin sheets of material is with magnetic clamps and double-sided tape.You've got to remember to recalibrate the zero point of the Z-axis every ten or so carvings, especially in a workshop with a wide temperature range.

The reflective material was not very effective.

They put a transparent protective film over the surface of the material, then carve it.Or, if the label is gold-plated, a green laser can be used. The cost is higher, but it avoids the need for polishing.

If you persist in recording the results of each adjustment, within three months you'll have the ability to "judge quality by sound" --to determine whether a carving is finished by the changes in the sound it makes during processing.In the end, carving is all about accumulating experience.