Five Tips for Getting the Most Out of Your Ceramic Cookware

Burning is a common problem during the firing process in ceramics. This article shares five practical techniques for solving this problem, including controlling the kiln temperature, optimizing the glaze composition, and adjusting the firing environment. These tips will help pottery enthusiasts and professionals pinpoint the root cause of burning and resolve it quickly and easily.

Why would the surface of a ceramic object turn black?

Let's not jump to solutions. First, we need to understand the root of the problem.The most common problem is the loss of control over the kiln temperature--either the rate of heating is too fast or there is a local hot spot.Too much glaze, not enough drying time, and blocking the flow of hot air can all result in a "burnt" piece.

Five steps to a successful test drive.

Don't get stuck in the temperature trap.

First, check the calibration of the kiln's thermometer and don't rely too much on the pre-programmed settings.When firing thick-walled pieces, remember to reduce the temperature rise by 20 degrees per hour, especially in the temperature range 600-900 degrees Celsius, when bubbles are most likely to form.He suggests that you first try firing some discarded pots to see if the actual temperature is the same as the displayed temperature.

The thickness of the glaze is also important.

Don't try to get it all in one layer; thin layers are the way to go.They use the spray method instead of the dipping method, and control the thickness of each layer to within 0.3 mm.Special attention should be paid to corners and edges, where glaze tends to accumulate. These can be gently wiped with a sponge.

The position where you place it should be well ventilated.

Don't put too much in the kiln. Leave at least a 5-cm gap for air circulation, and don't block the kiln's air vents with large pieces.Try placing those that are easily burned in the middle or lower levels, where the temperature is more stable.The choice of the spacers is also important, and using high-aluminum spacers rather than ordinary fire bricks makes for better heat transfer.

Don't be lazy when maintaining the kiln.

Every three firings, the accumulated ash around the heating coils must be cleared away to ensure efficient heat transmission.Check the condition of the gasket on the kiln door. A warped or worn gasket can cause uneven temperatures.For older kilns, it is recommended that one empty firing be done before the actual firing, to make sure that the temperature is even in all areas.

The length of the firing can be adjusted at will.

When the weather is damp, the preheating time should be extended.Glazed and unglazed ceramics must be treated differently. For glazed ceramics, the cooling time should be 15 % shorter than for unglazed.When you see an unusual glow in the observation hole, do not hesitate. Immediately enter the cooling process.

Special handling.

If the wood is already scorched, don't panic. Light scorch marks can be removed with a diamond sanding pad dipped in water, and then polished with a cloth.In the most severely damaged areas, the damaged parts were removed and replaced with new ones.Remember that each test should only vary one factor. Keep good records of the tests, and you will soon learn the "temperament" of your own kiln.