A Guide to Laser Power Settings

Provides a comparison of the golden power parameters for laser processing of different materials, including metal, wood, and acrylic.By using scientific settings for laser power, it is possible to raise processing efficiency and avoid material damage. The book solves problems in operation caused by inappropriate parameters, such as charring and cutting too deeply. It is suitable for quick reference by laser equipment users and operators.

Why is the laser power setting so important?

The power of the laser is like the heat of the fire when cooking--if it's too low, the meat won't cut, but if it's too high, it will burn.Different materials absorb laser energy to different degrees, and so wood requires a gentle, slow cut, while metal requires the full power of the laser.Choosing the right power output not only saves electricity and money, but also produces a smoother product edge, reducing the probability of having to rework the product.

Common Material Parameters

Wooden material.

For softwoods like pine and plywood, it is suggested that the power be controlled at 60-80 watts and the speed set at 15mm / second.If he comes across a hardwood like oak, he will increase the power to 100 watts, but he will slow the speed to 10 millimeters per second, or else the laser will leave a burn mark on the wood.Note: When working on coated wood, reduce the power by 10 % to avoid blistering the paint.

The metal material.

For stainless steel plates less than 0.5 mm thick, a power of 800 W is used with nitrogen as the assist gas, and the cutting speed is kept at 5 mm / s.Aluminum is a bit more difficult, requiring at least 1500 watts of power and the use of an air compressor to blow away the slag.A little secret: coating the surface with black paint before cutting can raise the efficiency of light absorption by 20 %.

Plastic and acrylic.

For 3 mm clear acrylic, use a low-power 40-watt laser, and don't go faster than 8 mm per second.When you encounter PVC, a big toxic gas, reduce the power to below 30 watts, and remember to turn on the exhaust fan.A little trick: If you stick masking tape on the back of your material, it will prevent scratches and reduce carbonation along the edges.

Practical techniques for power control.

Thickness determines the basic value.

Remember the "rule of thumb" that for every 1 mm increase in thickness, power increases by 10 %.For example, when cutting 5 mm acrylic, the laser power needs to be set to about 44 W, even though the standard power is 40 W.For materials thicker than 10 millimeters, it is recommended that they be sliced and processed in layers.

The test film is not to be spared.

Before starting on the real thing, he makes a trial run using scrap.We start out with a low power setting and then increase it by 5 watts each time, comparing the smoothness of the cut.When photographing reflective objects (such as copper), tilt the object 5 ° to avoid laser reflections from harming the lens.

The environment is to blame.

The efficiency of the system can vary by 5-8 % between summer and winter, and for every 10 % increase in humidity, the compensation factor has to be increased by 3 %.In the rainy season of southern Taiwan, it is best to run the machine every day to print a calibration pattern.If the cut appears yellow, don't be in a hurry to blame the equipment. First check whether the lens needs to be cleaned.

Avoiding pitfalls: Common mistakes made by beginners.

1. The superstitious manufacturer's parameter table--that's what they measured in the lab. In practice, you have to consider the impurity of the materials and the degree of aging.

2. Fixed power for the entire process: For complex designs, the power must be reduced by 5 % at the corners to prevent burning.

3. Ignoring the focus position -- A 1 mm deviation from the focal point can result in a 30 % loss in actual power.