Laser Parameters for Wood and Metal

A detailed chart is provided comparing the power, speed, and frequency settings for laser processing of metals and wood.The software includes practical techniques for cutting metal and wood, and helps users optimize laser equipment parameters according to the characteristics of the materials, improving processing efficiency and product quality.

Why do the parameters of laser processing differ for metals and wood?

Laser processing of metals and wood looks like "burning materials with light." In fact, there is a big difference. Metal has strong reflectivity and high thermal conductivity, requiring high power and concentrated energy. Wood has a soft texture and is easy to ignite; if the power is too high, it will be burned black.In plain terms, if you set the parameters wrong, you can't cut metal, or you'll burn wood into charcoal.

How do you adjust the parameters for laser cutting metal?

Metalworking requires precision and accuracy, so the parameters must be set very precisely.

Power and speed are matched.

For instance, if you are cutting 3mm stainless steel, it is recommended that you set the power at 80-90 % and the speed at 15-20mm / s.If the power is too low, it won't cut through; if the speed is too fast, the edges will be rough.If cutting thicker aluminum, you'll need to turn the power up to maximum and slow the speed down a little. Don't be stingy with the time, because the quality of the cut is what's important.

The frequency and the auxiliary gas.

When the frequency is adjusted to between 500 and 1000 hertz, the high frequency can reduce slag.Don't forget to turn on the air assist, especially when cutting carbon steel. The oxygen's effect in assisting the flame is very obvious, and the cut surface is clean and not prone to turning black.

What should be paid attention to when doing laser wood engraving?

Woodworking is a "gentle art," and if the parameters are too strong, the machine will break down in a minute.

Don't go for the highest wattage.

For 5mm pine, 20-30 percent power is enough, and the speed can be raised to 300mm / s.If the power is too high, the wood starts to smoke, and after carving it, you find that the wood has been scorched. It smells like a barbecue (don't ask how I know this).The deep carving can be done in several passes, which is safer than just plunging in.

And don't forget to blow on it.

A gentle breeze helps to blow away the sawdust and also keeps the wood from burning.If you are working with a hardwood like black walnut, you can increase the power by 5-10 %, but you have to slow down the speed. Otherwise, the details will all become a blur.

Parameter comparison chart: Quickly get started with settings.

Here are some tips for you to tuck away:

| Material Type | Thickness / Use | Recommended Power | Speed Range | Frequency / Accessories.

The table below lists the major types of Chinese opera.

| Stainless steel plate | 3mm cutting | 80-90 % | 15-20mm / s | 800Hz + oxygen |

The company's main products are wood and plastic, but it also does metal work.

| Aluminum alloy | 5mm cutting | 95-100 % | 8-12mm / s | 500Hz + nitrogen gas

Acrylic 3mm engraving 10-15 % 200mm / s Close air blast

(These figures are for common situations. In actual practice, they must be adjusted for the brand of equipment.)

Landmine avoidance guide: These are the places to avoid.

Cutting metal without auxiliary gas? You'll be waiting for the nozzle to get clogged, wondering if life is worth living.

--Using a continuous beam to cut wood? It would start burning in seconds.

- Copying parameters from another machine? The power of the lasers used by different brands can vary greatly, so it is best to first make a trial run before mass production.

Personal experience: Every time I switch materials, I cut a small 10 x 10 cm test piece. This saves a lot of time compared to just randomly fiddling with parameters.