Laser Marking Machine Settings: Mastering Depth Control in Three Minutes

By providing detailed explanations of the method of setting the parameters of the laser marking machine, users can master the core technique of depth adjustment in three minutes.It covers the practical application of key parameters, such as power, speed, and frequency, and offers suggestions for optimizing results with different materials. It also provides solutions to common problems, such as poor marking results.

Why does the setting of parameters directly affect the results of the marking?

Many people who are just starting to use laser engraving machines find that the same machine produces clear and textured images in the hands of some people, but blurry or uneven images in their own hands.The problems generally arise from the settings. If the power is set too high, the material will burn. If the speed is too fast, the engraving will be too shallow. If the frequency is inappropriate, the edges of the design will be rough.Today we will use the most down-to-earth method to teach you how to adjust these core parameters.

The three parameters that you must understand.

The greater the power of the laser, the greater its penetrating ability.

The power of the laser is like the machine's "strength." Hard materials like stainless steel require high power (more than 80 %), while softer materials like plastic and leather only need 30-50 %.One little trick is to start with the scraps and the lowest power setting, and adjust the power up as needed to get a visible mark, to avoid burning through the material.

Speed control influences precision.

Speed and power are "golden partners.For intricate designs, it is recommended that the laser head speed be reduced below 200 mm / s, to give the laser head enough time to etch the details.If the marking is simple, 400-600mm / s is more efficient.Watch the sparks produced when the needle hits the record.

The depth of the grooves can be varied by changing the frequency.

High frequencies (20 kHz) are suitable for fine surface marking, while low frequencies (5-10 kHz) are better for deep carving.One easily overlooked point is that too high a frequency may cause certain reflective materials (such as stainless steel) to reflect light spots.

The practical steps of deep adjustment.

Material testing method.

Prepare a test board the size of a sheet of A4 paper, divided into nine squares.The three settings for power (low, medium and high) are arranged horizontally, with the three settings for speed arranged vertically.This method is particularly appropriate for new materials, and can quickly determine the optimum combination of parameters.

The technique of layering.

When you need to carve a three-dimensional effect, don't be in a hurry to turn the power up to maximum.The process is repeated two or three times, each time increasing the power by 10-15 %, which both controls the depth of the carving and reduces the chance of deformation.Remember to clean off the dust with an air gun after each carving, otherwise it will affect the next layer.

Adjusting environmental factors.

Many masters of the craft tend to ignore the effects of temperature and humidity in the workshop.When the humidity exceeds 70 % in the summer, the power should be increased by 5 % to compensate for energy loss.In the dry winters of northern climates, metal components are prone to static electricity, which attracts dust. At such times, a reduction in the frequency can reduce the effects of static electricity.

A reference table for different materials.

Here is a universal formula (for a 50W fiber laser as an example):

Stainless steel: Power: 75-90 %, Speed: 300-500 mm / s, Frequency: 15-20 kHz.

- Anodized aluminum: power 40-60 %, speed 800-1200mm / s.

- Acrylic: 20-30 % power, 1500-2000mm / s.

Leather: power 15-25 %, speed 800-1000 mm / s.

Note that the actual power of each machine may differ. First, try the recommended range and then adjust it as necessary.If you notice carbonization on the edges, don't hesitate. Turn the power down 10 % and try again.

The following is a list of some common problems and their solutions.

If the ink color is turning yellow, it's probably because the power is too high and causing oxidation. Lower the power and increase the air pressure.If your images are blurry, check the speed of the mirror and the marking speed. If they don't match, we suggest increasing the acceleration parameter by 10 %.If the focal depth is suddenly uneven, first clean the focusing lens, then check to see if the track is lacking in lubricant. These little details are often more important than the settings!