The Secrets of Temperature Control in Leather Laser Marking

Laser marking is an important technique in leather processing, but it is easy to burn the leather if the temperature is too high.The book covers practical techniques such as adjusting laser power, testing materials, and real-time monitoring. It helps readers precisely control operating parameters so that they can ensure that the patterns are clear without damaging the leather.

Why is temperature control so important?

Everyone knows that leather is a very delicate material. If it gets too hot, it will harden, discolor, or even burn.Although laser engraving is more efficient than hand engraving, if the energy isn't controlled properly, the laser can ruin a piece of leather in a matter of minutes.Light-colored or thin leather is especially sensitive to changes in temperature.So, getting a handle on temperature control is the first step in mastering laser processing of leather.

The core method of control.

First, we give the machine a checkup.

Don't rush to pick up the knife! Leather comes in different batches, and the water content and thickness of each batch varies.It's recommended that you first test the machine on scraps of material, beginning at a low power setting and increasing by 5 % each time until you reach the point where the machine is just powerful enough to clearly mark the material without creating smoke.Remember this parameter, and then reduce it by 10 % as a safety margin when you actually start carving.

A "duet" of power and speed.

If you slow down the speed of the laser's movements, you will get the same result. I recommend using medium power (60 % of the rated power) with fast scanning speeds (1200 mm / s or higher).If there are many details in the pattern which require slow cutting, remember to lower the power at the same time.

Real-time monitoring is no time for slackers.

Prepare a small spray bottle and spray a bit of water onto the surface of the leather every few minutes during the carving process.Don't underestimate this simple method, because the evaporation of water can rapidly carry off local heat.If you can afford it, you can even install an infrared thermometer so you can keep an eye on the temperature and stop when it reaches 70 ° C or more, then continue after it has cooled.

It is important to get to know the "character" of different leathers.

The thicker and more durable cowhide can withstand a higher power setting, up to 45 watts. But sheepskin, especially vegetable-tanned sheepskin, is apt to turn black at a setting above 30 watts.The most difficult material is lacquer, which bubbles when heated. The power must be kept below 20 watts, and the surface must be blown with cold air.It is suggested that a database of materials parameters be established, so that successful parameters can be recorded and applied directly the next time.

Solving the "burned" problem.

If the leather really does get scorched, don't panic! Just use a fine sandpaper (800 grit or finer), and gently rub the area where the scorch mark is. Then apply a leather conditioner and wipe it off repeatedly.If the burn is small, a second carving can sometimes be done over the burn, using a lower power setting.But in the end, prevention is always better than cure. Spending 10 minutes more in the early testing stage could save a lot of trouble later on.