Step-by-Step Guide to Laser Marking

Want to adjust the system to get clear and stable marking results? From theory to practice, we will teach you how to master the key parameters and equipment adjustment skills to solve the common problems of fuzziness and unevenness.It optimizes core parameters such as laser power, frequency, and speed, helping users improve their marking accuracy and efficiency.

Why aren't your laser etchings clear enough?

When many of my friends first started using the laser engraver, they all ran into problems with blurry images and jagged edges.In fact, it has to do with parameters, equipment conditions, and even environmental factors.For instance, if the laser power is set too high, it may burn the material. But if it is set too low, it will leave a "half-finished" product.Don't worry, we'll take it step by step.

Understand the principle: how the laser marking machine works.

A dialogue between laser and material

In simple terms, laser marking is a process of drawing on the surface of a material with a laser beam.Different materials (such as metal, plastic or wood) absorb laser light to varying degrees.Metal requires more power to leave a mark, while wood can be "gentle" and still produce results.It's like cooking a dish. If you cook it too long it burns, but if you cook it too short it's raw.

Three brothers, three parameters.

Power, frequency and speed are like a steering wheel for laser marking.

Power determines the strength of the laser beam (for example, 20 watts is suitable for glass, and 50 watts for stainless steel).

Frequency control (high frequency is suitable for fine patterns, and low frequency is suitable for deep carving).

Speed affects the "rhythm" of the painting (running too fast is likely to cause the line to break, and too slow may burn through the material).

The secret of getting the best out of your inkjet printer.

A necessary process for newbies.

1. Do a "baseline test" first: Use some scrap to try marking, starting with the middle parameters (e.g. power 50 %, frequency 20 kHz, speed 500 mm / s).

2. Adjust the settings after observing the results: increase the power if the color is too light, and reduce the frequency if the edges are too blurred.

Remember to "go slow": It is recommended that you don't increase your speed by more than 10 % at a time.

The formula for different materials.

Here are a few common configurations (for the sake of illustration, we will use a fiber laser):

Stainless steel card: power 30 %, frequency 80 kHz, speed 800 mm / s.

Wooden crafts: 15 % power, 30 kHz frequency, 1200 mm / s speed.

- Anodized Aluminum: Power 45 %, frequency 100 kHz, speed 600 mm / s.

Maintenance: An often overlooked detail.

Even the best parameters can't compensate for a dirty lens or a loose track.The following checks are recommended for weekly use:

- Use a special lens cleaning cloth to clean the lens (never use a shirt!).

(1) Listen for unusual noises.

- Check the temperature of the cooling system water (25 ° C is best).

What do you do when you encounter problems?

If the image shows streaking, it probably means the galvonometer needs to be adjusted.It is recommended that you spend two minutes doing a quick test before each startup. This saves much more time than trying to fix the problem later.If you really can't figure it out, take a picture of the problem and contact the manufacturer. It's much more useful than saying "It doesn't work.